Anatomy of the Cue

Anatomy of the Cue

1. CUE TIP - The pool cue tip is made from treated, compressed leather. The cue tip is either screwed, slipped or glued to the ferrule and then turned to match the diameter of the ferrule. Its surface is beveled and scuffed so chalk will adhere on it. Billiard chalk produce the resistance when the cue tip hits the cue ball in an area other than center ball. In this way, the player controls the contact of the tip to the ball. It is important because it allows players to control the spin of the cue ball before and after it contacts with the object ball. The quality and shape of cue tips are factors of the performance of every pool cue or sticks.

2. FERRULE - The ferrule strengthens the tip area of the shaft and reduces impact vibration. It is slipped, threaded and glued onto the end of the shaft, then turned down to match the shaft size. The design, physical property, and length of the ferrule affect the laying characteristics of each cue.

3. SHAFT - The shaft of a pool cue is usually made of maple wood which is found mostly on colder climates. Maple is often favored for shaft wood because of its light color, stability, and resiliency. Carefully dried and aged wood is usually chosen, with emphasis on tight, straight grain lines. This wood endures many turnings in the process of becoming a shaft. Shaft length varies, with the average being 29 inches. The first 2 to 6 inches of wood, from the joint forward, has an impregnable high-gloss finish that protects from dirt and moisture. The remaining area, up to the ferrule, is open-pore wood with a very smooth surface. Shaft diameter is commonly 13mm; however, larger and smaller sizes are preferred for certain hand sizes and billiard games. Shaft diameter is constant for the first 6 to 14 inches below the ferrule, and then it grows larger to match with the joint. Shafts vary in stiffness based on the length and style of taper to which they are cut. A short taper has less flexibility and produces a firmer hit, while longer tapers provide more flexibility and a softer hit. Shafts affect the weight, balance, feel, and playability of a cue.

4. JOINT - The joint provides precise alignment of the shaft and butt, allowing the transfer of impact energy to travel the cue's length.

5. PIN - The threaded metal pin which is glued into the end of the forearm secures the connection to the shaft. The pins vary in width, length, thread pitch, and channel depth. Wider pins screw directly into shafts that have tapped wood threads, while thinner pins require an insert in the shaft. Each option accommodates a flat-faced wood-to-wood connection, which results in a softer hit. Some inserts, however have a protruding nipple that pilots the shaft concentrically with a pin that is recessed in a collar at the joint, causing a harder hit.

6. COLLAR - The threaded collars are made of stainless steel, ivory, or molded phenolic resin. These are glued onto the forearm to reinforce the pin and stabilize the shaft.

7. RINGS - Located below the collar and on the joint end of the shaft, rings reinforce the joint and are often decorated with inlays. Matching ring work is often found above and below the wrap and at the base of the butt-sleeve.

8. FOREARM - Forearm is located between the joint and the wrap/grip area. It is connected to the handle by various methods that may include a threaded dowel or pin. The forearm is commonly made of figured hardwood, carefully chosen from dried and seasoned stock to insure stability and to endure many turnings. The forearm is often decorated with inlays. Its surface area is coated with an impregnable high-gloss finish to help protect the wood from cracking and warping.

9. POINTS - The most common inlay, points vary in style and design. It reinforce the forearm, curtail warping and enhance the balance of the cue. Some points are even in number but staggered in height, while others remain the same length.

10. INLAYS - Inlays are often made of exotic woods, precious metals, ivory, gems and mother-of-pearl. It must not compromise structural integrity, balance or playability. Since inlay materials vary in weight and density, these considerations cannot be avoided.

11. WRAP - Wrap covers the grip area of most pool cues. The finer wraps are made from Irish linen, leather or cork. Its purpose is to provide a sure grip, long life and absorb moisture from the hand. Wraps also complement the color scheme that is predominant throughout the cue.

12. HANDLE - The handle is the portion beneath the wrap. It is connected to the forearm and is often made from straight-grained maple, which is chosen for its proper weight and density.

13. BUTT-SLEEVE - The butt-sleeve is a cored cylinder, usually made of exotic wood matching the base wood of the forearm or the primary wood in the points. In some construction methods a solid cylinder is used for the butt-sleeve to achieve the desired balance. Design work in the butt-sleeve always accentuates that of the forearm. Often those designs are a reverse of those found in the forearm, but on a smaller scale. The entire butt-sleeve will have an impregnable high-gloss finish.

14. BUTT/END CAP - The butt strengthens the base of the pool cue and houses the bumper. Butt/End Caps are made from a variety of durable materials that provide protection for the wood and inlays that are often found in the butt-sleeve. The caps vary in size and color but not all pool cues have butt.

15. BUMPER - The bumper is most often made of rubber or other resilient material. It protects the Butt/End Cap from contact with the floor or rack.

16. FINISH - An excellent finish is a vitally important aspect of the cue maker's craft. Not only does it highlight the workmanship of the artisan, it also protects from the variety of elements that can adversely affect unfinished woods. A fine finish adds to the beauty and value of a pool cue forever.